What's in a Wine Club?
The ins and outs of signing that tempting form
The first couple of times I visited Northern California wine country, I ended up committing to a few wine clubs. I was an easy sell: I wanted good wine, the convenience of having it arrive directly at my home, and a sense of connection with particular wineries I had visited and loved. I’m still a member of one wine club, Lasseter Family Winery, because they only sell direct to consumer and I just love their Rhone and Bordeaux-inspired blends and appreciate their sustainable approach to farming so much.
But I’m at a crossroads now that I live a twenty minute drive from Lasseter. I do want to keep receiving their wonderful wines, and the idea of being able to go there more regularly for tastings and member events is appealing. However, they don’t allow dogs. I am strongly considering becoming a member at Iron Horse because it’s close and I love it so much, but…same problem. My work days are long, and when I’m off, I’m looking for activities where Val can accompany me. So, as much as I love Lasseter, my days as a member there may well be coming to an end, because what I’m looking for in a wine club is different now that I live here.
Whether you’re visiting or living in wine country, it’s likely you will be hit with the wine club pitch. This doesn’t happen as much in other countries I’ve visited, but in the US it is ubiquitous. I am now a person who pitches a wine club to people, and I actually think it’s quite a good deal, if it meets your specific needs. That’s the key, and what I want to talk more about today. Instead of being charmed by the vineyard experience (I have been there, and I know of whence I speak), how do you choose a wine club that gives you what you want, doesn’t trap you with things you don’t want, and charges you a reasonable amount of money?
How much are you required to buy? Most wine clubs have different levels of membership at which you are buying different numbers of bottles, varying numbers of shipments each year, or exclusive wines. Pay attention to exactly what level of commitment you are making. Most wine clubs’ basic level seems to start around $200 per shipment, often three or four times per year. If you like their wine and want to drink it regularly, $200 every 3-4 months isn’t that expensive, but you should also be aware of what the average bottle cost is and what you are comfortable paying. In Napa, $200 can get you eight bottles or it can get you one. You can find great deals through a club if you are drinking a fair amount of wine anyway, but think realistically about how much you usually spend per bottle and the comparative value you get through a club.
Do you like the wine? This seems obvious, but there is a lot of wine out there, and you have to like enough of this producer’s wine to want it showing up at your house a few times a year.
How long are you committed to the club? Generally they will keep charging you and sending you wine as long as you don’t opt out, but wineries have different requirements for how long you stay in the club after you sign up. There are good reasons for this; they’re giving you benefits like comped tastings and discounts on wine. Some only require one shipment before you can cancel while others ask for a year’s commitment. Some will allow you to skip shipments if needed but want you to pay for three shipments before fully cancelling. Just know what you’re getting into, and under what circumstances you can pause or cancel your membership.
When will you receive shipments? This is more a simple awareness than anything else, because when I first joined wine clubs, I thought the shipments would be quarterly, when in fact they usually come two in the spring and two in the fall, and nothing in the hottest or coldest months. This makes total sense in terms of not spoiling or freezing your wine! But it does mean the payouts are closer together than you might expect.
Can you buy the wines you want? Are the shipments chosen by the winery or can you customize your choices? Do you have access to the wines you most want? For example, if they offer a winery exclusive that you love, are you consistently able to purchase that wine? I was once a member of a club solely to get their winery exclusive fall release Cabernet, and I did not regret it, but I would have dropped that club like a hot potato if I discovered that particular wine wasn’t part of the deal. All that said, some clubs are all about exploration. If you are learning about wine and want some level of surprise and education, a club where they send you a mystery assortment can be great. I’ll give a nod here to wine clubs that are run by retail stores rather than wineries. Many retailers offer some form of monthly or quarterly wine club selection, and a retailer you trust to give good recommendations can be a great source for an exploratory wine club that chooses wines you might never try on your own. They also tend to allow more flexibility, i.e. you can buy a single month without committing to further selections.
What is the shipping cost? Shipping costs run the gamut, and I’ve left clubs in the past because I was paying $80 in shipping for a $200 order. My current employer has a flat $20 shipping fee. I was recently informed by some guests that their other club doesn’t charge shipping for members. I don’t understand how they’re making that work financially, but it was understandably a big hit with the customers.
What do you get that you couldn’t get from just purchasing the wine? Most wine clubs offer discounts on wine purchases - both what’s in your club shipments, and anything else you want to buy. They also offer free tastings, and if you don’t live nearby, it might still be worthwhile to have your tasting comped while you are visiting. Depending on the winery, that can be the value of an entire shipment. If you do live nearby, ask about what free member events they offer, and how many free tastings you are allowed. Members used to have pretty much free rein to come in for tastings anytime at many wineries, but a lot of places have tightened the rules and limited the number of tastings you’re allowed in a year, or the number of guests you can bring per visit. If you’re looking for a winery to serve as your private club, it’s going to be tough to find these days. Some wineries include access to private rooms, picnic areas, bocce courts, and other attractions, which can be a big benefit if you live in or travel frequently to the area.
Is this a place and a team you like? This is a less quantifiable category, but possibly the most important. If you’re a wine club member, you are in a sense paying for a connection to a place, even if you seldom visit. You’re also supporting a particular approach to farming, winemaking, and hospitality, and you should feel good about what you’re supporting. For example, I feel strongly about supporting wineries that use regenerative agricultural practices and who make restrained, complex, elegant wines - and this is why Lasseter has been a good fit for me. I’m also picky about aesthetics, hospitality, and the general “feel” of a place. Is this a place I want to go and sit down for a couple of hours on a fairly regular basis? Do I feel welcome and relaxed here? Do I feel like they want me here? There are wineries whose wines I love but whose tasting rooms I will never visit again…and those are not wine clubs I will be joining.
Are there other make-or-break factors? Even if you don’t live nearby and won’t be visiting regularly, you will want to make sure that if you do visit, you can take advantage of all the benefits of membership. If you have mobility limitations, can you easily get in and out of the tasting area, restrooms, etc.? If you have children and want to be able to bring them to the winery, is that allowed, and is there anything for them to do? Is there food? If not, can you bring your own food? Can your beloved, well-behaved dog accompany you? If not, that might be a dealbreaker. Ahem.
In summary, do not be like me and get swept up in the moment and join every wine club in sight, but do not be afraid to join a club that gets you wine you love and benefits you appreciate. I’ll be over here looking for a new club that meets my needs: close to Santa Rosa, relaxed and beautiful, great wine, and obviously, dog-friendly. Cheers!