Through the Grapevine #70
Wine news and just a smidge of commentary for Oct. 1, 2025
Life Among the Vines
I’ve never been particularly good with keeping track of days and dates, but lately life has spun into a chaotic blur in which time has no meaning. I have a very detailed planner that I use for just this reason, but you know, you have to actually look at the planner for it to help. So, here in the land of, “Did I remember to get groceries?” my writing schedule has suffered. I’m working on it.
In the meantime, the winemaking project continues! The initial fermentation has finished and the wine is hanging out in a carboy while the sediment settles out. So far it has good aromatics and texture, and has maintained some acidity, which is sometimes tough with Viognier, so I’m hopeful about what it will become.
At work we’re approaching the end of harvest, and nearly every morning brings a new load of grapes - at this point mostly Cabernet Sauvignon. This is the best time to visit wine country, even if it does tend to be a busier time, because it’s the season when you can taste the grapes, see them being processed, and smell fermentation in the air. Wine is becoming all year round, but unless you’re working in a cellar, that process becomes abstract, hidden within tanks, barrels, and bottles. During harvest it’s all in the open.
The Grape News
Wine has made me very nerdy about the science of smell and taste, and it seems I’m not the only one. The UC Davis Viticulture and Enology department is expanding its sensory science program and hiring new Assistant Professor Dr. Ha Nguyen.
I’ve written in the past about my journey with Chardonnay from ABC drinker (Anything But Chardonnay) to reluctant appreciator to someone who voluntarily - even eagerly! - buys and drinks a fair amount of (carefully selected) Chardonnay, and works at a winery so famous for Chardonnay that there’s a movie about it. If you’re a lover of Chardonnay or a skeptical but curious drinker, check out this list of the 50 Best California Chardonnays of the 21st Century So Far.
Georgian wine and the women who are reviving its ancient traditions with modern sensibilities.
The power of old vines in Rioja, some so old that they are actually vitis sylvestnis, the ancestral species to vitas vinifera, the grape species we mostly use for wine now.
The deep-level ins and outs of decanting:
A hilarious and fascinating interview with the “Mad Doctor of Wine,” Dr. Loosen, on the Somm TV Podcast. I spent a significant amount of my listening time rewinding to verify that I accurately heard how long he is aging Riesling in the barrel, because deliberately oxidizing Riesling is wild.
Immigration is a mess here in the U.S., but in Napa, Napa Valley Together is expanding resources and preparedness to support immigrant workers in this community.
The ongoing battle over alcohol and health continues at the UN.
Napa faces unexpected competition from…Bordeaux?
Wine Blast covers their top Chilean wines of 2025. I’m especially interested in trying out some of that old vine Païs, which is a little known and under appreciated grape I’ve had a soft spot for lately.
THC in any form has never been any great friend of mine, but if you’re into that sort of thing, apparently there is now THC wine that is good, or at least good-ish.
Vineyard Maintenance
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The Best Thing I Drank This Week
I mentioned above that I’ve had a weak spot lately for Païs, sometimes known as Mission Grape, Listan Prieto, Criolla Chica, and a variety of other names.
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