Through the Grapevine #65
Wine media and just a smidge of commentary for July 29, 2025
Life Among the Vines
LOOK AT THESE GRAPES!
Ahem. Excuse me while I get myself together. I did live here last year during the growing season, but I wasn’t working in a place where I had a daily view of the growth cycle, and now that I do, I get inordinately excited about it. It’s been relatively cool here so far, but the grapes are zooming along toward ripeness.
I got out of work early on Thursday, which gave me the opportunity to stop by Freemark Abbey for a tasting. Freemark Abbey, which isn’t an abbey at all but was simply named for three of its owners, was one of the wineries involved in the 1976 Judgment of Paris, and the only one to have both a red and a white in the tasting. They make some big, powerful Cabernets that are not usually my favored style, but I was impressed by their balance and the subtlety hiding behind their power. I came home with a bottle of their Partners Blend, a delicious, plush, Merlot and Cab Franc combo that is calling out for a chilly night and a campfire.
The Grape News
The Wine Conversations series on AI wrapped up with a final post from Dave Baxter, which links all the previous planned and unplanned parts of the discussion. This was by far our liveliest conversation so far, and I’m thrilled to be part of it and to see this little community blossoming.
The US and EU are near a trade deal that will likely involve tariffs, and wine may or may not be exempt, so we all continue to be confused and uncertain. I routinely hear people argue that tariffs drive people to buy domestic goods, which support small businesses and create jobs here in the U.S. Sure, if you’re talking about some product that can be made with materials and equipment exclusively sourced here, and that is disconnected from the global supply chain and doesn’t need to be sold in any other country. I’m not sure what that product is, but it sure isn’t wine.
Besides, in a global economy, and in an industry where a huge part of the appeal is that we can travel through a glass and be connected to people around the world by the bottles they produce, is the goal to isolate our purchases to domestic products? I’m going to say no. So in addition to the harm being done to the U.S. wine industry, I’m concerned about countries like Italy that are primed to take a huge hit from tariffs.
In the face of tariffs and other political stupidity, I loved this joyous interview with Joy Sterling of Iron Horse Vineyards, which is a longtime favorite of mine. I certainly won’t be suffering if I buy Iron Horse instead of Champagne (even if I’d prefer to have the option of both).
I also loved this personal and informational take on Rosso di Montalcino, the baby Brunello that might charm, disappoint, or trick you, or if you’re not careful, seduce your girlfriend under your nose.
Last week I was kind of excited to hear about the proposed Sonoma Wine Improvement District, but some producers are understandably less than thrilled about having taxes on wine raised to accomplish undefined goals.
A delightfully pithy piece on how to run a winery like a business rather than a hobby:
We all know Karen McNeil is cool; after all, she wrote the Wine Bible. But if you’re like me, you may not know her entire story, and it’s pretty incredible. You’ll want to know how a 14 year-old runaway became an iconic wine writer and educator, trust me. Listen in on her conversation on the Wine for Normal People Podcast.
Vineyard Maintenance
Yesterday you may have seen my post on wine tasting, the first in a series on foundational wine information for curious beginners and more experienced drinkers and pros who might be looking to fill in some gaps. I’m working on this series to build an archive of this kind of reference material for those who might just be starting their journey with wine. If you’re new here or fit in that curious and learning category (which I hope we all are), welcome! If you’re one of the many readers out there who could teach me a thing or two, don’t worry; I’ll still be posting these industry-focused updates and other personal and more advanced content. Thanks to all of you for being here, reading, liking, sharing, commenting, and subscribing. I appreciate you! Below the paywall are a couple of special features I offer as a thank you to paid subscribers. Enjoy!
The Best Thing I Drank This Week
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