Life Among the Vines
No semi-melancholy reflections today. Some aspects of my life here are still riding the struggle bus, but also, this is my office.
I live in a stupidly beautiful place, which so far has been having perfect weather this season, and watching the steady cycle of the grapevines over this last year has been good for my soul. So, a couple of pics of vines I’ve been watching consistently through the growing season:
The Grape News
The big AI controversy and some big feelings: Some of us Substack wine writers have been having a good time with the Wine Conversations series for a few months now, but it seems like we’ve tapped into a wider community and conversation - and some heated opinions - with this month’s topic: Can AI replace sommeliers? You can find the latest over at Truffles & Tannins:
Vicky has links in her piece to the previous posts in the thread, and I’d also recommend reading the comments for some enlightening interactions with folks who come from different perspectives. David Mastro Scheidt jumped in with a separate post of his own on using AI to design a pairing list, while Charlotte Simmons wrote a lengthy and detailed piece on AI’s potential to impede genuine human artistry, thought, and growth that is well worth the read.
The long perspective: AI is obviously a pressing issue in wine, as are things like the drinking habits of Gen Z, anti-alcohol health declarations, and tariffs. But as I sometimes remind my guests, wine is about the long game, and those whose families have been making wine for generations sometimes have a less urgency-driven perspective than the rest of us. See: Olivier Krug, interviewed by Dave McIntyre at WineLine.
Why organic farming really matters: I have a confession. I am constantly vacillating on the importance I place on organic viticulture. I’m never anti-organic, but I also know some non-organic growers with responsible reasons for holding onto conventional farming techniques. Someday maybe I’ll write more about that. In the meantime, Simon Woolf’s piece on organic vineyard practices definitely pushed the pendulum back toward more firmly pro-organic.
Domaine Carneros and winemaker Eileen Crane: Loved this piece from Mark Spivak on the history of California sparkling, its bonds with Champagne, and an interview with Domaine Carneros iconic winemaker, Eileen Crane. Did I cringe a bit when she suggested that Prosecco is the White Zinfandel of sparkling? Yes. That’s a comparison I reserve for brands that continue to call themselves “California Champagne.” Ahem. But this is still a great post and interview. Read it, and then go drink some La Reve.
Hoopes Vineyard continues fight to run their business: Owner Spencer Hoopes has made a series of videos detailing the false facts put forth by Napa County in the lawsuit against Hoopes Vineyard. Lindsay Hoopes was featured on the Winemakers Podcast discussing the vagueness of the regulations they are being accused of transgressing.
Greek wine! If you’ve been here a while you may remember that I traveled to Greece a couple of years ago and loved the wine, and have been a big advocate of this under appreciated wine region every since. Tim Atkin also champions Greek wine, and writes about some notable ones to try here.
Orange wine gets legit: This week a guest mentioned orange wine to me, only to immediately dismiss it. “I hate those wines, they’re so weird.” I try to have patience with that sentiment because I know most people have limited exposure, but come on. The availability and range of orange wines should be getting us past this now. I don’t think we can quite call orange wine mainstream yet, but it’s a mistake to write it all off as a unilateral thing. Check out Andy Neather’s post on this, and share my joy that he mentioned an orange wine from Lyrarakis, which I visited on the aforementioned trip to Greece.
Vineyard Maintenance
Welcome to new subscribers who are coming my way mostly by recommendation from other wine writers! And thanks to those writers who have me on their recommendation lists. I’m trying to catch up on the back end of this blog so I can return the favor. I have noticed a bit of a dip in paid subscriptions (mostly through failed renewals) in the last couple of weeks. I understand there are many demands on all of our time and money, and I appreciate those of you who have supported and continue to support my writing. If there are things that would make this newsletter more worthwhile to you, please don’t hesitate to reach out and let me know what you’d like to see here. Inspiration is at least half the game in writing, and one never knows what might come from a seemingly insignificant question or comment. Anyway, thanks for being here.
The Best Thing I Drank This Week
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