Major Red Grapes - Cabernet Sauvignon
The first in a series about the basics of the wine grapes we love
I know some of you who read this newsletter already know a lot about wine - in some cases more than I do! But for those who are just starting to learn, I thought it might be helpful to do a basic overview of some of the grape varieties you may find: where they are typically grown, notable characteristics, how they’re different, when you might choose to drink them rather than other varieties, and some recommendations of those I think offer good quality at a reasonable price point.
Today I’m starting with the first of the top four global red varieties. These are grapes that are grown in many areas around the world and are familiar in nearly any market. They also represent the most vineyard space and highest production volume. So, we’re going to go ahead and start with the one that is considered by many to be the “King of Grapes:”
Cabernet Sauvignon
Born in Bordeaux, France as a crossing between Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon is one of the most valued grapes in the world. In its higher end iterations, like Chateaux Margaux and Lafite Rothschild from Bordeaux and Screaming Eagle from Napa, it can command well over $1,000 per bottle. Cab Sauv has traveled well, and in addition to Napa, significant amounts of it are grown in Australia, Chile, Argentina, South Africa, and Italy. In Bordeaux it is often blended with Merlot and sometimes Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Malbec for balance and to make it more drinkable when young, because Cab on its own can be a little harsh. In Italy it is partnered with Sangiovese in Super Tuscans, and in Australia you’ll often find it blended with Shiraz.
In terms of typical characteristics, think full-bodied, relatively high alcohol (13.5-15% ABV) wines with noticeable tannins (the stuff that makes your mouth feel dry, papery, or leathery). Dominant flavors include blackberry and black currant. Cab Sauv grows best with a long, warm ripening season; if it doesn’t become fully ripe, it can still hold onto unpleasant amounts of methoxypyrazines that give it strong green pepper aromas and flavors that don’t mellow even with long aging. Cedar, vanilla, dried herbs, licorice, mocha, and chocolate tones are common, as Cab Sauv is usually aged in oak for an extended time to integrate and smooth the tannins. It can also take on some aromas specific to the area where it’s grown, like eucalyptus in Australia or mint in Chile.
There’s a reason Cab Sauv is a classic choice at a steak house: it pairs best with beef or other hearty meats that aren’t overwhelmed by its strong flavors and distinct tannic structure. It also goes well with sharp cheeses or other foods that are gamey, fatty, or umami.
In the U.S., because of the dominance of Napa and the costliness of that land and the name, it can be hard to find quality domestic Cabernet at a reasonable price. Those grown in the Central Valley are affordable but tend to be heavy, and because they have to be sweetened to balance the pyrazines and tannins, they can run a bit sweet for my taste. I’m just going to be honest here: if I really want domestic Cab, I am prepared to pay at least $50 retail for it, often more. I just don’t drink it very often, and that’s both because of the expense and because it’s just not my grape of choice; in most situations it’s heavier and more tannic than meets my current taste.
The exception here is Cabs from outlying areas like Washington State. They’re often a bit lighter bodied, but that’s not necessarily a bad thing. If you just like Cab and want to drink it for under $20, and you’re not as picky as I am, you can also look to Paso Robles and areas on the Central Coast, like the Livermore Valley. You’ll also find good quality and value Cabs from some of the countries I previously mentioned, like Chile, Argentina, and Australia. And of course, Bordeaux is always an option, with many of them priced under $20, although they will mostly be blends.
Some good, reasonably priced (around or under $20) Cabernets I’ve had recently:
- Wente Moonlit Harvest
- Parducci
- Miguel Torres Cordillera
- Bonanza (this is made by the Caymus folks and I really did not expect to like it, but it’s not bad! And it’s available pretty much everywhere, and for only $20 instead of the ridiculous $90 price tag on Caymus)
- Sebastiani Alexander Valley (do yourself a favor and don’t bother with the baseline Sonoma version even though it’s a few dollars cheaper)
- Concha y Toro Valle De Maipo Marques de Casa Concha
- Errázuriz Cabernet Sauvignon Valle de Aconcagua Max Reserva
What’s your favorite value Cabernet Sauvignon?
In the coming weeks I’ll be covering Merlot, Pinot Noir, and Syrah/Shiraz, followed by the four global white grapes, and then maybe we’ll think about covering some of the less common/more regionally focused varieties. In the meantime, let me know what you’d like to know about these grapes and the wines they produce. Raising my glass of Cab to you; cheers!