In Praise of Vermouth
It's not just for Manhattans!
Do you ever have one of those days when it gets to be about 5pm, and you think, it would be so nice to have the perfect drink right now? Something not too strong, maybe a little sweet but not too sweet, nothing too expensive but you’re not in the mood for beer, preferably something simple enough to just be purely enjoyable but complex enough to be interesting. Something to begin the evening with a little joy and relaxation.
In Spain you would not be having this little conversation with yourself; you would already be drinking vermouth.
(Vermouth o’clock in San Sebastián, Spain)
In Spain, it’s normal to “go for a vermouth” pretty much any or every day. You might not even drink vermouth when you go for a vermouth; it’s not uncommon to “go for a vermouth” but drink beer or wine. But I almost always opt for the vermouth because back in the U.S. I can’t always get it.
Here in the U.S., vermouth is relegated to accessory status - and not usually a fabulous accessory. We talk about wafting the bottle over our martinis rather than actually adding the vermouth. In most bars, order a vermouth and you’ll get a shot of Martini & Rossi from a years-old bottle and a baffled look as they ask if you want it on the rocks. Martini vermouth is FINE. I mean, it’s not great, but it’s fine - although not if it’s been sitting out at room temperature for a year. But herein lies the problem. We don’t know how to store, serve, or drink vermouth properly, and so we don’t think of it as a drink at all. Which is a real pity, because we are depriving ourselves of the perfect beverage to begin a pleasant evening.
To be clear, in this case I’m talking mostly about red or sweet vermouth, because I haven’t actually tried white/dry vermouth as an aperitif. I’ll have to get back to you on that.
What is vermouth? Both sweet and dry vermouths are wine, fortified with small amounts of distilled spirits like brandy, with added botanicals. Dry vermouth is around 5% sugar, tends to be more floral, and pairs well with gin. Sweet vermouth can be up to 15% sugar, leans more toward warm spices and vanilla notes, and is great with whiskey. Or alone!
How should I store my vermouth? Oh good, you’re already assuming you’ll have vermouth to store! Please, for the love of the baby Jesus, do not leave your opened bottles of vermouth sitting around at room temperature for months on end. It is wine. If it’s unopened, you can store it like wine, at room temperature (or preferably somewhat cooler), for quite a long time. Once it is opened it should be refrigerated, where it will last longer than, say, an open bottle of white wine, but I try to use it within about a month. If you’re not sure if it’s still good, you can smell and taste it just like wine. If it tastes good, drink it!
So I just…drink it on its own? Yes! I love it as I learned to enjoy it in Spain, with a couple of green olives and an orange slice. Yes, I know that sounds like a strange combination, but it’s the perfect balance of savory, sweet, and acidic. I brought back some anchovy-stuffed olives from my adventures this summer and they are an amazing addition to my Yzaguirre Reserva Roja.
What kind of vermouth should I be drinking? My go-to in the U.S. because it is both readily available and delicious is Carpano Antica. It’s just slightly bitter with strong vanilla notes and a bit of citrus - fantastic in a Manhattan but also really nice as an aperitif. Cocchi and Cinzano are also easy to find in bars and liquor stores and good for both cocktails and sipping. At home I’ve gotten into the aforementioned Yzaguirre, which produces Spanish vermouths, sangrias, and sweet wines. The Reserva comes in at a slightly higher price point than most vermouths - which have the advantage of being very affordable in general - but I appreciate the spicy, woody character from 12 months in oak barrels. If you prefer a more bitter drink, try it with a few drops of Campari.
It’s Friday, and perhaps many of you will soon be having that conversation with yourself. Is it time for the perfect drink yet? Might I suggest a vermouth!